Luggage Rack and Bag for the BMW K1200LT

Installation instructions......

To Purchase this rack and kit CLICK HERE


There are two ways to install the rack which changes it's location by one inch.  I prefer and recommend method 1 which moves the rack as far rearward as possible however, requires that a section of plastic be ground out with a "Dremel like tool" to access the rear nuts.  This allows sleeping bags and larger items to be further away from the passengers head.  Method 2 only requires drilling 4 holes, their location is more critical though.  Please read and study the instructions before you start hacking on your beautiful bike.  Remember what I learned as an apprentice machinist....."measure twice....cut once”

The "feet" or "adapters" ready for the kits.  Polish them occasionally with Mother's Aluminum Polish

Start with the rear feet.  Insert the 2 short studs a few turns in the rack.  They will hold the rear feet in position while you scribe your lines.  When you are done with the rear holes, you can use the studs to hold the front feet.

Set the rack on the bike and visually center the rack with the feet in the proper place.  Scribe a mark around the rear feet.  The feet edge should be located right to the edge of the radius on the box.  This is critical, look at the picture carefully.

If you are going to install the rack with method 2, remove the rack and mark the rear holes exactly one inch forward.  Set the rack on the marks and scribe a mark around the feet.

This shows the difference between the two methods.  The bolt is located now in method 1.  If you screw up and drill the hole wrong for method 2, you will end up too close to the wiring tunnel.  Make sure you center the rack perfectly when marking your holes.

Drill your holes with the next size drill above 1\4" that you have.   Drill one hole first with a very small drill and confirm it's location is correct before drilling all of them. 

The front feet are shown. When you drill the front holes, use a small bit first.  There is a small ridge underneath the vinyl that will try to make your drill bit  move.  Once the small hole is through, use a bit slightly larger than 1\4 "  You will feel the drill go through several layers of plastic.  Make sure you go through all of them. Don't worry about the vinyl, the drill goes through fine.

Method 1 requires the use of studs (supplied) on the rear holes because it's too hard to get the bolts in.  Method 2 uses the short bolts (supplied)  Both methods require the use of the rubber tubing supplied in the kit to compensate for the curve of the box.  No rubber is used for the front holes.

A piece of rubber hose and a washer is used under the rear nut\bolt to compensate for the angle of the trunk for both methods of installation.  You have to use it!!!    DO NOT GET CONFUSED WHICH IS FRONT AND WHAT IS REAR WHEN THE LID IS OPEN!!!

For method 1, the rear bolts are accessed by grinding out the plastic area shown on the top of the picture.  If you chose method 2, and drilled the holes properly, the bolt will be just outside the plastic area and very close to the plastic boxed area

Note the thin rubber gasket under the rear feet to protect your paint.  They are included with your kit!  Rotate the feet for the best fit before tightening.

Install the long bolts in the front holes with a metal washer.Gently tighten the bolts and nuts.  A drop of loc-tite on the threads will help.  Do not over-tighten!!!!

You will have to use  7\16 wrench to access the rear nuts for method 1 Do not over-tighten!!!! Tighten only enough to gently squeeze the rubber about 50% of it's original length

When you are done, method 1 should look like this......Method 2 uses bolts only and you can toss the studs and nuts.

Contact me if you have a problem


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(disclaimer)...This rack is designed for a Harley Davidson and not approved by BMW.  Install at your own risk.

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